The shape of a diamond refers to its outline when viewing it from above. Each shape has its own unique characteristics which also determine its quality.
Round
The round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular and researched shape. It exceeds all other shapes in exuding fire and brilliance. More rough is lost cutting and polishing a round diamond than any other shape. All of these factors contribute to the relatively higher price of round brilliant cut diamonds.
FANCY SHAPES
All shapes other than the round brilliant are referred to as Fancy Shapes.
Princess
The princess cut diamond is traditionally square with 90 degree angled corners. Princess cut diamonds can also be rectangular in shape. You will need to look at the length-to-width ratio to determine the dimensions you prefer. A squarer princess cut will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.0 and 1.05:1.0 whereas a more rectangular shape will be 1.10:1.0 or greater. Because of the method of polishing, inclusions are more difficult to see in the princess cut and it has very good fire and brilliance. The unique square shape of the princess cut makes it a popular choice for engagement rings in traditional, retro, or contemporary settings.
Emerald
Emerald cut diamonds are rectangular with diagonally cut corners. Also known as a step cut, the rectangular facets of the pavilion in emerald cut stones create a unique optical appearance. Because inclusions in an emerald cut are easily visible, the stone's clarity is particularly important. Emerald cut diamonds can also vary in how rectangular they are. The classic Emerald Cut Diamond shape will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.3 and 1.4:1.0. Emerald cut diamonds convey a timeless elegance that makes them a truly classic diamond shape.
Asscher
Often called simply 'Asschers', diamonds of this cut are square or rectangular with diagonally cut corners, almost identical to the emerald cut. The preferred squarer shape of the Asscher Cut Diamond will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.0 and 1.05:1.0. The Asscher cut diamond's stunning brilliance, sparkle and art deco allure make them extremely popular in today's market.
Marquise
Marquise cut diamonds have a boat-like shape which is twice as long as it is wide and has pointed ends. The unique shape of a marquise cut diamond can maximize carat weight giving the illusion of a much larger-looking diamond. Its elongated form can create the illusion of longer, narrower fingers. The preferred length-to-width ratio is normally 2.0:1.0 and for those who prefer a more compact, rounder look 1.5:1.0. For the more elongated shape then look for a ratio of 2.25:1.
Oval
The oval is a stretched round brilliant-cut that has beautiful fire and brilliance. Classical and elegant, oval-cut diamonds accentuate long slender fingers. Oval shapes are longer than equal-weight round diamonds, resulting in more size per carat weight.
The preferred length-to-width ratio is normally between 1.4 and 1.6:1.0 and for those who prefer a shape closer to round look for 1.15:1.0. For the more elongated oval shape choose a ratio of 1.70:1.0.
Radiant
A stunning shape that combines the brilliance and sparkle of a round diamond with the classic emerald cut shape. The radiant cut is usually rectangular in shape but also popular in square. A squarer radiant cut will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.0 and 1.05:1.0 whereas a more rectangular shape will be 1.10:1.0 or greater. Comprised of 70 facets - more facets than a round brilliant cut - radiant’s can show considerable brilliance. Radiant-cuts are often used for fancy-colour diamonds, as their shape accentuates colour.
Pear
The pear cut, or teardrop shape, is a variation of the round brilliant cut diamond. A pear cut is really a hybrid of the round brilliant cut and marquise cut diamond. Most people prefer a pear-shaped diamond to have a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75:1.0. For a more compact look choose a ratio of 1.20:1.0 and 1.80:1.0 for a more elongated shape. Some of the largest diamonds ever mined have been shaped into pear cuts. Some pear cuts are elongated, creating the impression of a slimming effect to the finger of the wearer; others are wider in appearance.
Cushion
The cushion is a square shape with rounded corners and sides and larger facets to increase brilliance and highlight clarity. The cushion cut (also known as 'pillow cut') is an Old Mine cut enhanced with modern cutting technologies and additional facets. The preferred squarer looking cushion cut will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.0 and 1.05:1.0 whereas a more rectangular shape will be 1.10:1.0 or greater. Because of its antique appearance, the cushion cut is often used in vintage-look jewellery. This elegant look has increased its demand considerably in recent years.
Heart
This shape's name says it all: heart, the universal symbol of love. Basically the heart shape diamond is a pear cut with two rounded edges instead of one. The heart shape can appear quite different according to its length-to-width ratio. The most traditional heart shape diamond will have a length-to-width ratio between 0.9 and 1.1:1.0.
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